Flavor #1 (best with grounded digital components)

Step 1: Cut the shielded cable to desired finished length.
Step 2: Strip about 1-1/4" of the outer Teflon jacket off the ends. Be careful not to nick the conductors!
Step 3: Carefully "comb out" the braided shield on ONE end of the cable, in effect "unbraiding" it- then twist the braid together tightly to form your shield drain wire.
Step 4: On the SAME end of the cable, trim both conductors and the shield drain wire back so they are an appropriate length to fit nicely into the IEC plug without excess wire.
Step 5: Strip the wire enough to connect the conductors (hot and neutral) to the appropriate terminals on the IEC plug.
Step 6: Secure the (formerly braided) shield drain wire AND the 12 AWG safety ground wire to the ground on plug.
Step 7: On the other side of the cable, completely remove the braided shield up to beginning of the insulation on that end.
Step 8: Note the manner in which the conductor pairs are twisted within the cable (clockwise or counter clockwise).
Step 9: Starting from the IEC end, spiral the 12 AWG safety ground wire around the cable jacket in the opposite direction as the twisted conductors within the cable. Do this until you get to the male connector. The spiral ratio should be about 1 complete turn every 4".
Step 10: Secure the spiralled wire about 4" from each end with heatshrink. next step.
Step 11: Starting at the end with the IEC plug, tightly secure the spiralled ground wire by using 2" pieces of 1/2" heatshrink every 6" or so. The object here is to tightly secure the ground wire so it is not flopping around when the cable is bent. Continue until you get to the end of the cable's Teflon outer jacket (you should remove the rubber band or tape before you secure the last piece of heat shrink).
Step 12: If you plan on using flexible Nylon Sleeving, now is the time to cut an appropriate length and slide it over the cable. Now you may use additional Heat Shrink to join the plugs to the sleeving by sliding onto the cable.
Step 13: Eyeball the length you will need for the conductors to fit into the male plug without excess, and connect the conductors (hot and neutral), to the appropriate spade. Also connect the safety ground at this time. DO NOT connect the braided shield here- you should have already trimmed back the shield in Step 7.
Step 14: Plug these babies in!!! (after using a continuity tester to make sure you didn't mess up- see disclaimer)

Flavor #2 (this version sounds best with amplifiers and most other grounded analog components)

* Use the unshielded version of the VH Audio Wire. This lowers the capacitive coupling even further between hot and safety ground

* there is > 1/8" spacing between the safety ground and inner conductors by using the heavy walled high-pressure air hose as a spacer. Combined with the shield removal and the counter-spiralled ground, I believe this design may achieve the absolute lowest capacitive coupling between the inner conductors and safety ground.

* The "end product" has a diameter of about 5/8" and looks REALLY, REALLY, SERIOUS- especially with the nylon sleeving over it. Your friends will ask: "Why do you have garden hoses attached to your stereo components?"

Additional parts:
3/8" I.D. X 5/8" O.D. Synthetic Rubber Hose available HERE.

** Order about 20% more ground wire than the length of your cable, to account for the length shrinkage that occurs when spiraling around the rubber hose. Also get about 30% more techflex than the length you intend to make...

Step 1: Cut the cable to desired finished length.
Step 2: Cut the Air Hose about 6" shorter than cable length in Step 1
Step 3: Feed the wire through the air hose until about 3" protrudes from each end of the hose.
Step 4: Strip an ample amount of insulation from each wire on the cable and connect to the Male plug at the appropriate spades (black is usually "hot" and "white" is neutral).
Step 5: Connect the 12 AWG Teflon ground to the ground spade on the male plug.
Step 6: Note the manner in which the conductor pairs are twisted within the cable (clockwise or counter clockwise).
Step 7: Starting from the Male end, spiral the 12 AWG safety ground wire around the outside of the tubing in the opposite direction vs. the twisted conductors within the cable. Do this until you get to the end of the tubing. The spiral ratio should be about 1 complete spiral per 4" - 6" or so.
Step 9: Secure the spiralled wire to the hose with a thick rubber band or tape temporarily while we complete the next step.
Step 10: Starting at the end with the male plug, tightly secure the spiralled ground wire by using 1 1/2" pieces of the heatshrink every 6" or so. The object here is to tightly secure the ground wire so it is not flopping around when the cable is bent. Continue until you get to the end of the tubing (you should remove the rubber band or tape before you secure the last piece of heat shrink).
Step 11: If you plan on using flexible Nylon Sleeving, now is the time to cut an appropriate length and slide it over the cable. Now you may also use the additional Heat Shrink to join the plugs with the sleeving/hose by sliding onto the cable.
Step 12: Eyeball the length you will need for the conductors and the safety ground to fit into the IEC plug and trim the wires back.
Step 13: Strip the wires and terminate to appropriate terminals on the IEC plug.

Flavor #3 for use with all components that don't require a safety ground. This was best for my non-grounded digital components

Same as "Flavor 1" except we don't use a safety ground. Just use the raw VH Audio Shielded cable (no need to use or wind a 12 AWG safety ground). You still must "comb" and then twist the braiding at the source end (male plug) and connect it to ground.

So what do they sound like? Does my stereo now go to "11"? (for "Spinal Tap" fans out there)
Here is what others have said after making or buying these power cables: Power Cord Reviews.

I never thought power cables could make a significant difference in my system. I was wrong.............

Good luck, and enjoy!

* Try experimenting by using a ferrite clamp on the safety ground only at the load end (the end with the IEC). Many people have suggested that use of Ferrites help filter out garbage in power cords, but I have found that Ferrites constrict the dynamics of the system and they ADD inductance to the hot/neutral (rather than lower it- which is our objective). By putting the ferrite on the safety ground only, we are able to attenuate any unwanted nasties that try to make it into the component via the ground. (you don't need to do this tweak with "Flavor #3", because the ground is not coupled to the component)

* If you have the experience, and want to "trick out" your AC even more, I would suggest going to Magnan's site and read tweak #2: "Do-it yourself approach to AC line filtering". Lots of good stuff on his site. I especially like the idea of using ferrite toroids on other AC cords around the house to keep garbage from being dumped into the lines!

* It would also be a good idea to upgrade your AC receptacles at this time, since they are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. VH Audio stocks Oyaide, Furutech, and P&S receptacles at aggressive prices...

Would you like to write a review of these power cables?

Legal Stuff: 
All content on this site is property of Christopher J. VenHaus copyright 1999-2008, all rights reserved. All images are copyright protected and may not be distributed in any manner without written permission. I do not endorse, and expressly forbid attempts to "commercialize" any of my cable designs for profit, without permission. Flavor 1, Flavor 2, and Flavor 3, Flavor 4, and The Hot Box are trademarks of VH Audio, Inc.